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Archive for the ‘Drink’ Category

Keeping one’s guests supplied with liquor is the first law of hospitality. ~ Margaret Way

Yala, Sri Lanka

December 30 – 31, 2014

Whole fish, shrimp, rice and curry made straight from the hearts of our host and hostess

Whole fish, shrimp, rice and curry made straight from the hearts of our host and hostess

It only occurs to me nearly a year later as I sit and reminisce about our overnight stay in Yala, Sri Lanka that maybe I don’t fully understand the nature of true hospitality. Have I ever taken in a stranger and made them feel at home and cared for as if they are family or dear friends? I haven’t and in many ways, I feel ashamed to say that it seems very awkward to me. I love entertaining and having guests over but I have never simply opened up my home to strangers. I have always been on the receiving end and never given it too much thought; this doesn’t mean that I take any of my experiences for granted as I’ve always felt and expressed my gratitude to those whom have welcomed me.

Is genuine hospitality lacking in our American culture? Or have I just been ignorant of the beautiful opportunities to meet and welcome strangers in my home? Am I too wrapped up in my own life to give up my home and time to welcome someone I don’t know?… After giving this more thought, I hope to challenge myself to grow and to reciprocate the next time an opportunity arises.

Road Trip from Hill Country to the South

After spending four days in the hill country, Jonathan and I headed south. Our goal was to make it to the coast by New Year’s Eve to meet up with our friends. To break up the long drive, our driver, U.P., suggested we stop in Yala for the night and stay at his sister’s guesthouse. This would also allow us to venture out for another safari since Yala National Park is only a short drive from the guesthouse.

A Family Affair

After spending nearly a week with our driver, he quickly learned that the best way to get us excited was finding us a good bite or meal. We often found ourselves pulling off on the side of the road, many little pit stops of sorts, to try local delicacies or to pick up a handful of fruit or coconuts to quench our thirst. Jonathan and I talked about food around the clock and U.P. shared with us his love of cooking as well. As we neared his sister’s guesthouse for the night, he decided to pick up some fresh fish and vegetables so he could cook us a dinner once we arrived.

After showering up and settling in we were invited to a huge dinner prepared by U.P. and his sister in their home. The time they spent working hard in the heat to make sure that we had an incredible dinner was unbelievable. The family made us feel as if we were part of their own clan coming home after being away for a long time. It was special and quite a genuine display of hospitality. After dinner, we enjoyed a bonfire in the yard.

Our evening ended with many rounds of arrack, a Middle Eastern liquor.  U.P. insisted we try it.  I was not a fan as it tasted too sweet for me but I sincerely enjoyed every minute around the fire.  I couldn’t help but to be filled with a warm feeling. It was as if we were part of their family rather than strangers passing through.

Traveling to Sri Lanka?

Hiring a driver while traveling in Sri Lanka was easy. It helped us relax and not worry about directions and also gave us the advantage of having a local’s opinion on everything.  A driver can also suggest excursions and plan them for you if you like.  I highly recommend doing this . We often could not get phone service so getting directions would have been difficult and it was rare to see road signs in the hill country. Interested in hiring our same driver, you can connect with him via his website (www.srilankaturist.com).  I loved his sister’s guesthouse too so if you are interested you can find more information on her Trip Advisor account or her website www.jcguest.com.

Want to read more about our Sri Lankan itinerary? Find more in this post, A Winter Escape. Prior to arriving in Yala we went on a safari in Uda Walawe National Park. Next up, we head to Weligama to meet up with friends and celebrate the New Year. Check back soon for this post!

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You can never get a cup of tea large enough or a book long enough to suit me. ~ C.S. Lewis

Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

December 29, 2014

Woman harvesting tea

Woman harvesting tea

From an outsider’s point of view, it seems as though tea is the heartbeat of Sri Lanka. Mountains and hillsides all around are inundated by tea trees. It’s breathtaking and picturesque. Ceylon tea is known worldwide for being a high quality and desirable tea. But I’m a coffee drinker. Well, it’s more like I’m a coffee addict. However, once we arrived in Sri Lanka I fully embraced tea. In fact, I came to look forward to my morning pot.

Mackwoods Labookellie Tea Center

After spending several days decompressing in Kitugala, we headed west into the highlands towards Nuwara Eliya. Our goal was to visit a tea plantation then head to Bandarawela/Ella for another secluded night at a beautiful resort. Our driver suggested we stop at Mackwoods tea plantation so that we could try the tea and take a tour of the factory. The drive there was the highlight but the factory did not disappoint; although, the tour was brief and not as comprehensive as I would have liked.

Enjoying the grounds and the factory at Mackwoods on a very misty afternoon...

Enjoying the grounds and the factory at Mackwoods on a very misty afternoon…

There are many other plantations and factories to visit in Sri Lanka. We chose Mackwoods above a few others because we knew it was going to be easy to get a tour and it wasn’t far out of our way. One thing I would have wished I had known before going is that you cannot explore the actual tea grounds. Some other notable tips; the souvenir shop is overpriced but you can sit down in the cafe area and get a free pot of tea. If you have to wait for the next tour, grab you free pot there and someone will come and get you when the tour is ready.

Want to know what else we did while exploring Sri Lanka?  You can find out more here. Curious about where we headed next? Follow my blog or check back soon!

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The traveler sees what he sees, the tourists sees what he has come to see.  ~ Gilbert K. Chesterton

COLOMBO, SRI LANKA

December 26 & January 3, 2015

Manning Market

Manning Market

Colombo was a starting and ending point for our road trip around hill country and the south of Sri Lanka.  I arrived with very little expectations.  What I had read about Colombo left me unimpressed.  Sometimes this is a great thing because you can be easily surprised and delighted by the unexpected.  After a full day of wondering the city in search of good eats and interesting places I was left feeling confident that we made the best decision to stay only one night in Colombo.  My lens is very narrow and I am sure I missed a lot of what Colombo has to offer but if one place doesn’t have an initial draw, why wait to be convinced?  Life is short.  Move on.

Colombo (The Beginning)

Lodging: Decoco Guest House

Food:  Pilawoos (Hotel de), Sponge Bakery, Arpico

Drink:  Castle Hotel 

Explore:  Manning Market, sunset at Galle Face Green

Lodging

Guest houses are a dime a dozen in Sri Lanka.  Decoco Guest House was a nice place to stay for a night.  Was it fantastic? No…but it was certainly fine.  The owners were very accommodating and helped us with a few unusually difficult situations that we’ve never had to handle in another country.  Other than that I would say this guest house was quite average.  The location is hard to find on your own and also hard for drivers to find; if you are choosing a place based on location, I would suggest you skip Decoco.

Food

After settling our things at the guesthouse we headed out to explore for the day.  When staying in a city for as little as 24 hours, you have to decide wisely on how to spend your time.  Food was our number one must do, especially after so many endless hours in flight and in airports.  One of my favorite ways to experience food, culture, and the people of a new place is to visit the city’s markets.  We started our journey by heading to Manning Market.  It’s Colombo’s wholesale fruit and vegetable market.  It is cheap, if that is what you are looking for.  After roaming for nearly 45 minutes, everything seemed unappealing.  We left hungry but I knew just the place to brighten our spirits…

Hotel de Pilawoos…not a hotel but a 24/7 joint that serves the city’s best short eats.  We sat down and devoured two huge plates of kotthu roti.  This is hangover food at its best and is the meal everyone should have after a long flight.  Get the kotthu with cheese, I promise you, you will like it.  Spicy, with loads of texture from the chopped roti and a bit of creaminess from the cheese.  Dig in!

Kotthu Roti at Hotel de Pilawoos: 417 Galle Road

Kotthu Roti at Hotel de Pilawoos: 417 Galle Roada

Although we had plenty to eat, Jonathan always manages to find room for something sweet.  A short walk down the street from Pilawoos and we find ourselves in Sponge bakery.  Another miss.  But that doesn’t stop him from finishing his plate.

Passion fruit and yogurt cake at Sponge

Passion fruit and yogurt cake at Sponge

We had plans to meet up with some friends who were having an unfortunate stay at the hospital so for dinner we headed to a grocery store with the hopes of finding some easily transportable edibles.  We went to Arpico which reminded me of a super Walmart with more interesting groceries.  I mention this because if you find yourself in need of anything from snacking cheese to perfume…you will find it at Arpico.

Exploring

With a little guidance from Lonely Planet, we decided to walk toward Galle Face Green.  It’s recommended as a fantastic spot to indulge in some treats from street vendors and to watch the sunset. Jonathan and I have fun just about anywhere and Galle Face Green was no exception but I wouldn’t recommend it as a place for street food or to see the sunset (unless it’s an unusually clear day).  However, it was nice for people watching and there’s something worthy of your time if you take in a bit of the culture here.  After an hour of lounging on the wall by the beach, I began to gather how connected Sri Lankan families are.  There were so many families walking or playing together.  Everyone seemed happy and enjoying their time connecting with each other and the outdoors. This seemed to me like a daily pleasure rather than a family vacationing together.  A lesson our society could stand to learn, where the couch and television are too often the centerpiece of the evening.

Galle Face Green

Galle Face Green

Drinks

Intrigued by Lonely Planet’s description of Castle Hotel (a misnomer at best) as a “timeless boozer offering up cheap drafts” and located in “once-posh surroundings”, we headed that way; other options were nearly all overpriced cocktails in locales swimming with tourists.  Upon arriving, I sensed this moment was going to be a game changer for me. Something about the looks I received upon entering, the dim lighting and lack of any appeal to the interior had me on guard.

Priding ourselves on our ability to face discomfort in the eye, we proceeded to find a table and order some drafts. It was quickly evident, a female in this bar was not a typical or likely occurrence. We were offered a seat in a different section of the bar when we entered but turned it down to be in the main area where it seemed more lively.  I think that was the first hint we overlooked, the second came when our table was approached by a man who took our order without ever looking at me.  He would only address Jonathan until I finally spoke up on our second or third round. He wasn’t unfriendly by any means and eventually gave me a kind smile. Uncomfortable as I was, the cold drafts were quite welcoming. I always hope to be considerate of others’ beliefs and customs yet never apologetic for being a female.  So I sat with a bit of uncertainty.  At the end, I withstood the initial desire to leave and rather enjoyed the hour or so at Castle Hotel.  I would return again…next time, without any trepidation.  In fact, I highly recommend it.  From this post, it appears that it may not exist much longer.

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Castle Hotel

Colombo (The Ending)

Lodging: Cinnamon Grand Hotel 

Food:  Beach Wadiya

I have to say, by the time we were headed back to Colombo I was very sad, and not because I didn’t fully enjoy it the first time.  I was sad to come to the realization that our travels were quickly coming to an end and we were also having to part ways with two of our best friends.  The country blew my expectations out of the water.  It was absolutely one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.  I would go back in a heartbeat to experience the rest of the country we were unable to see.  I look forward to sharing the next steps in our Sri Lankan journey.  Up next, two nights in Kitugala. Stay tuned!

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As with any journey, who you travel with can be more important than your destination. – Unknown

TAIWAN

July 31 – August 10, 2013

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It’s been over a year since I traveled to Taiwan and with that much time between, my retelling is not as acute as I would like. One thing is for sure; traveling with truly smart, interesting and adventurous people will leave an ever-lasting etch in one’s memory.

If you followed my previous post, you already know that prior to meeting up with two of our great friends, we spent about a week in Vietnam.  We had an amazing time but the best was yet to come. Unfortunately, Jonathan and I became quite ill on our way from one country to the next.  In a matter of 24 hours we went from energetic, giddy travelers to ones on a hunt for a true medicine man to cure our ailments.  We had no real luck and were both probably the sickest we have ever been but that didn’t stop us from making the most of our adventure.

Two Couples

We are quite lucky to have such amazing friends. It would take a whole other blog to explain how we have met some of the finest people around but to make it simple, the four of us met over a decade ago while living in Washington, DC.  One thing for sure is that distance never breaks up a true friendship.  Jonathan and I now reside in New York City while Dave and Alex are living in another great city, Singapore.  That hasn’t stopped us from getting together.  We’ve made a point to make the globe our playground….and who do you want to go out and see at the playground??? Your friends!

Miranda & Jonathan

Miranda & Jonathan; living in New York City

Alexandra & David

Alexandra & David; living in Singapore

The Adventurers

The Adventurers

One Car

If you really want to explore and don’t mind getting lost (come on, that’s how you find the best places), you should rent a car while traveling.  Terrible at working that GPS?  Try figuring it out in Mandarin!  Bonus – you will actually get to know your travel companions even better.  Who knew Alex had the uncanny ability to tell you the release year of just about any song she hears?  It’s a rare gift, especially when she has never heard the song before…crazy talent I would have never discovered had the four of us not been squeezed into a little vehicle packed with over flowing suitcases, 7eleven snacks, and a never-ending supply of tissue boxes.

The Island of Taiwan

Our Itinerary:

  • Taipei:
  • Kenting
  • Taitung
  • Haulien
  • Yuanshan
  • Taipei

Taipei (The Beginning)

Lodging: Muzik Hotel

Food:  James Kitchen, Old Wang’s Beef Noodle Soup, Din Tai Fung

Drink:  Wistaria Tea House, Revolver

Explore:  Keelung Temple Night Market, Shilin Night Market, Longshan Temple

James Kitchen

James Kitchen, Da’an District

Din Tai Fung, Da'an District

Din Tai Fung, Da’an District

Wistaria Tea House, Da'an District

Wistaria Tea House, Da’an District

Keelung Temple Night Market, Keelung

Keelung Temple Night Market, Keelung

Old Wang's Beef Noodle Soup, Jhong Jheng District

Old Wang’s Beef Noodle Soup, Jhong Jheng District

Shilin Night Market, Shilin District

Shilin Night Market, Shilin District

 Kenting

Lodging:  Uni Resort

Food & Drink:  Kenting Street Night Market

Explore: Hiking in Kenting National Park, Eluanbi Lighthouse

Kenting National Park

Kenting National Park

Eluanbi Lighthouse

Eluanbi Lighthouse

Kenting Street Night Market

Kenting Street Night Market

 Taitung

Explore: Hiking in Jhihben National Forest

Jhihben National Forest Recreation Area

Jhihben National Forest Recreation Area

Hualien

Lodging:  Silks Place,  Tienhsiang Youth Activity Center

Food & Drink:  Mei Yuan, The Wellesley

Explore: Baiyang Waterfall Trail,  Swallow Grotto Trail, Lianhua Pond Trail

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Baiyang Waterfall Trail

Swollow Grotto Trail

Swallow Grotto Trail

Lianhua Pond Trail

Lianhua Pond Trail

Yuanshan

Explore:  Kavalan Distillery

Kavalan Whiskey Distillery

Kavalan Whiskey Distillery

Taipei (The Ending)

Food:  Shao Shao Ke

Drinks & Entertainment:  Sublime, Brown Sugar, inHouse, KTV @ Party World

Shao Shao Ke, Zhōngzhèng District

Shao Shao Ke, Zhōngzhèng District

The Grand Finale

The Grand Finale

Verdict ~ Make your own road trip in Taiwan.  You will not be disappointed.  Vibrant, bustling cities full of culture, some of the most interesting and delicious street food in the world, breathtaking mountains, and gorgeous beaches…how could you go wrong? 

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Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer. – Unknown

HANOI & HA LONG BAY, VIETNAM

July 25 – 31, 2013

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A few years ago I came across a friend’s photograph on Facebook.  I typically take a quick look at photos in the news feed, sometimes I comment, but mostly I just move on down the feed.  This particular photo entranced me.  It awakened my desire to see and explore more than any other photo that I can remember.  It was magical.  It was breathtaking.  It simply blew my mind.  The photo was a scenic view of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.  I knew from that moment I would have to travel there one day.

A majestic view from above Sung Sôt (Surprise Grotto)

A majestic view from above Sung Sôt (Surprise Grotto)

Day Four

  • Leave Hanoi by van to Ha Long Bay
  • Over night Paradise Luxury Cruise with stops at Sung Sôt and Đảo Ti Tốp

From Hanoi to Ha Long Bay

By staying at the Hanoi Elegance Ruby, we were able to easily book our trip to Ha Long Bay.  The hotel arranged our pick-up, held our bags overnight, discounted our stay since we were not staying one night out of our planned stay with them, and booked us a new (and even nicer) room for the evening when we returned.  Amazing service.

After looking at several options, we choose to book our overnight cruise to Ha Long Bay through Paradise Cruises.  This company was one of the few that had spacious rooms with balconies as an option.  We booked and were very happy with our room.  The energy on the boat was quite low from most passengers.  This did put a bit of a damper on our stay since we like to eat, drink and be merry.  We still did…just by ourselves!  Towards midnight, we heard a boat that appeared to be having way more fun – great music, cheering and excitement echoed from their boat.  Ours was quiet and dim by that time.  So warning – if you are looking for a party boat or want to socialize and meet new people, then you should try a different boat.

Paradise Luxury & Cabin

Paradise Luxury & Cabin

 

Enjoying everything there is to offer...

Enjoying everything there is to offer…

 

FYI, there's no shop for miscellaneous items on the boat...  We were hanging out on our balcony when we heard voices down below.  We looked down and saw a small raft approaching with goods for purchase.  These ladies had everything from chips, candy bars, water, fresh coconuts and more.  We turned them away as we didn't expect we would need anything.  A few minutes later another lady came by and it occurred to me that we might need a bottle of wine for the room.  What are my chances?  Sure enough, she had a bottle of Vietnamese wine for sale.  Then I thought, is she going to throw it up to us?  Then, how I am going to pay her?  My thinking didn't last long...she had a net to make exchanges.  Awesome!  What's not so awesome...hot wine that has spoiled.  Oh well!  It was a fun purchase.

FYI, there’s no shop for miscellaneous items on the boat… We were hanging out on our balcony when we heard voices down below. We looked down and saw a small raft approaching with goods for purchase. These ladies had everything from chips, candy bars, water, fresh coconuts and more. We turned them away as we didn’t expect we would need anything. A few minutes later another lady came by and it occurred to me that we might need a bottle of wine for the room. What are my chances? Sure enough, she had a bottle of Vietnamese wine for sale. Then I thought, is she going to throw it up to us? Then, how I am going to pay her? My thinking didn’t last long…she had a net to make exchanges. Awesome! What’s not so awesome…hot wine that has spoiled. Oh well! It was a fun purchase.

 

As part of the cruise, the ship stops at several places to give you an option of hiking, kayaking, swimming or visiting a cave.  Here we are at Dao Ti Top.  We were able to climb to the highest for a scenic overlook and then hang out on the beach to relax.  It rained when we were climbing but cleared up just as we were heading to the beach.

As part of the cruise, the ship stops at several places to give you an option of hiking, kayaking, swimming or visiting a cave. Here we are at Dao Ti Top. We were able to climb to the highest point for a scenic overlook and then hang out on the beach to relax. It rained when we were climbing but cleared up just as we were heading to the beach.

 

Ha Long Bay - Bay of the Descending Dragon; a UNESCO-declared World Heritage area

Ha Long Bay – Bay of the Descending Dragon; a UNESCO-declared World Heritage area

Day Five

  • Return to Hanoi from Ha Long Bay
  • Dong Xuan Market
  • Dinner at Pho 10

After a wonderful night of dining, gazing at the stars, playing games on our balcony, we slept like babies.  The next morning our boat headed back to the port where our van was waiting to take us back to Hanoi.  My last thoughts on Ha Long Bay…simply majestic!

Our return trip took a few hours.  Along the way we planned out how we wanted to spend our last night in Vietnam.  There was one restaurant we had yet to try…but we had one very important stop to make before dinner.  After learning how to make traditional northern-style pho, we knew we would want to recreate it at home.  That meant we needed the secret ingredient since we were told it would be quite difficult to find it in the states…back to the market we went!

Sa sung; dried sea worms for pho from Dong Xuan market. They add a wonderful savory sweetness to the broth...all natural umami!

Sa sung; dried sea worms for pho from Dong Xuan market. They add a wonderful savory sweetness to the broth…all natural umami!

Dinner at Pho 10

A wonderful friend bought me the book, Where Chef’s Eat – A Guide to Chefs’ Favorite Restaurants.  I made a point to look up if there were any chef recommendations before heading to Hanoi.  Sure enough, I found one!  Pho 10 was recommended by Chef Neal Fraser as being a restaurant worthy of traveling out of your way to enjoy.  He was right on point!

A must try in Hanoi!  Delicious, inexpensive, packed with locals, and great service.  Don't expect to hang out...this is an in and out stop.  The servers are quick so that everyone can eat without a long wait.

A must try in Hanoi! Delicious, inexpensive, packed with locals, and great service. Don’t expect to hang out…this is an in and out stop. The servers are quick so that everyone can eat without a long wait.

Day six (really day seven but the first day was cut short) was spent eating a quick breakfast and heading to the airport.  We were sad to leave as we could have used a little extra time to travel to other cities in Vietnam but we had other plans… off to Taiwan for a road trip with friends!

Verdict ~ Visit Vietnam!  If you are in Hanoi, stay in the Old Quarter, be careful crossing the road, drink Vietnamese coffee like an addict, and take in the all the pleasures the city has to offer…great people, even better food, history, markets, street food, and more.  Whether you are in Hanoi or another city in Vietnam – make it a point to travel to Ha Long Bay and be prepared to revel in the beauty our planet has to offer. 

For more on this journey – check out Part One and Part Two

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 Little by little, one travels far. –  J.R.R. Tolkien

HANOI, VIETNAM

July 25 – 31, 2013

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Day Three

  • Orchid Cooking Class with Chef Tien
  • Dinner at Nha Hang Ngon
orchid7.jpg

Chef Tien

 

Orchid Cooking Class with Chef Tien

One of the best ways to learn about a culture is through their cuisine.  On our third day, we signed up to take a traditional northern Vietnamese cooking class at Orchid Restaurant (25 Hang Bac Str, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam) with owner, chef, and local food expert, Chef Tien.

The class begins with a basic introduction into traditional foods and a quick review of the menu you will be preparing.  After that, Chef Tien takes you on an adventure to the local food market to shop for main ingredients.  Next you are back in the kitchen to learn, cook, taste, share, and experience great food from start to finish.

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Orchid Restaurant & Cooking School

 

At Dong Xuan market shopping for ingredients we needed for the class.  Chef Tien steers us towards a lady selling balut and encouraged us to try it.  Jonathan takes him up on the offer and is quite surprised that it was better than his last balut experience...

At Dong Xuan market shopping for ingredients we needed for the class. Chef Tien steers us towards a lady selling balut (duck embryo) and encouraged us to try it. Jonathan takes him up on the offer and is quite surprised that it was better than his last balut experience…

 

Trying out chả quế; a delicious meat pate flavored with cinnamon, star anis and other spices.

Trying out chả quế; a delicious meat pate flavored with cinnamon, star anise and other spices.

 

Pho Bo: basically a whole day of work goes into making this delicious bowl of heaven...this particular bowl was the best I've tried and yep, I helped make it!  Secret ingredient...sea worms.  Look no further, these add a depth to the broth that is hard to substitute (that's why we smuggled into the US...shhhhh).

Making phở tái; basically a whole day of work goes into making this delicious bowl of heaven…this particular bowl (with cooked beef and then topped with rare beef) was the best I’ve tried and yep, I helped make it! Secret ingredient…sea worms. Look no further, these add a depth to the broth that is hard to substitute (that’s why we smuggled some into the US…shhhhh).

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Hanoi style Vietnamese spring roll and a seafood salad

Here we are making cha ca (pan fried fish with turmeric and lots of dill); this is a famous dish in the area and we made it with a twist...rapped up with romaine and rice paper..

Here we are making cha ca (pan fried fish with turmeric and lots of dill); this is a famous dish in the area and we made it with a twist…rapped up with romaine and rice paper.

I highly recommend this class.  Just the trip to the market with a local chef was worth the experience; learning to make all these wonderful dishes…was the cherry on top.  No, wait, eating them was the best part!  So what do you do after about 8 hours of cooking and eating.  Nap.  Guess what happened after that…  Yes, I was hungry again.

Dinner at Nha Hang Ngon

I don’t know how we actually do it.  Jonathan and I don’t eat like ravenous animals at every meal when we are at home but somehow we easily fit in enough food for a family of four at almost every meal when we travel.  I would be ashamed or embarrassed but I’m not…because we eat it all (or nearly so) every time.  There’s always this looming feeling that if we don’t try ‘it’ now we may never have the chance to…so we order and we order and we order.  Needless to say, I was not hungry the next morning.

When you encounter a menu the size of a novela, you get one of everything that is most appealing...and if you're indecisive, just order it.

When you encounter a menu the size of a novela, you get one of everything that is most appealing…and if you’re indecisive, just order it.

What a day!  We learned so much and enjoyed every waking moment.  Vietnam has so much to offer and if you aren’t convinced yet…stay tuned for part three, coming soon!  A little teaser… on day four we head off on an overnight trip to Ha Long Bay.

 

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A soup like this is not the work of one man.  It is the result of a constantly refined tradition.  There are nearly a thousand years of history in this soup.  – Willa Cather

HANOI, VIETNAM

July 25 – 31, 2013

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Thank Goodness for Smart Phones & A Little Faith

Jonathan and I have found ourselves in some funny, albeit stressful, traveling situations.  For example, showing up very late to the wrong airport to board a flight to Singapore was about the worst prior to our most recent trip. So what takes the cake?  Trying to get your boarding pass two hours before your flight without a visa to the country you are flying to.  Yes, that’s us, standing at the United check-in line looking dumbfounded when the receptionist told us we weren’t able to get on our flight without our visa documents.

Going back to the city and waiting a few days to head to the embassy in order to apply was not an option.  All it took was a few reassuring looks between the two of us, a quick Google search…and poof!  We were ready to outsmart the system.  For about $40 dollars a person you can apply online for an express Visa.  In one day, you can receive a PDF document allowing you into the country.  It took some convincing, but we were able to get United to send us to Thailand (our last layover city before Hanoi) with the hopes that by the time we arrive, our visa documents would be ready.  United cancelled our flight from Bangkok to Hanoi and made it clear that if we were unable to get into Vietnam or happened to be stuck in Thailand it was all on us.  We didn’t flinch.  We boarded our flight with good faith that our online application would go through before landing.

For anyone who travels, not quite fully prepared (like us), then it may be good to know that Vietnam does require a Visa for entry.  Also good to note, the Bangkok airport has a printing station and passport photo booth to complete any Visa requirements.   Thailand saved us…as if we needed another reason to love that country!

19 Hours…

Our plan for Vietnam was to indulge in great food and overcome serious jet lag before heading to Taiwan.  Although the beginning of our trip was not going as planned, we finally landed in Vietnam and were back on track.

It took everything out of me to not check in the hotel and go right to sleep.  It was roughly 6pm and I knew that if I wanted to get over the eleven hour time difference I would have to keep myself awake until an appropriate time to sleep…and then I remembered how amazing Vietnamese coffee is.  What better way to keep myself up than a cup of cool, sweet addicting goodness!

VNCoffee.jpg

Vietnamese coffee at the ever relaxing and air conditioned, Align 3D Café.

There simply wasn’t enough caffeine in the whole café to supply me with enough energy for the evening but I only had one choice.  Power through it.  Next up, dinner.  Anything would do after two days of in-flight meals but we were lucky to find ourselves near the famous Bat Dan Street.  It is rumored that Hanoi’s best pho can be found here on this street.  After strolling along for several blocks we settled down for dinner at the only place with a line of families and couples waiting for a seat.  Score.  When in doubt, look to the locals for clues on where to find the best food. Finally, a decent hour to catch some sleep.  We headed back to the hotel (Hanoi Elegance Ruby) and collapsed…  The next thing I know, Jonathan is waking me up from a lovely, deep sleep.  Whatever he wanted I imagined would go away if I just ignored his calling my name but suddenly it hit me like an amplifying echo…wake up, wake up – it’s 4:30 in the afternoon….wake up, wake up, it’s….  WHAT?  I was baffled; where was I?  And how on earth did I just sleep – wait let me count…19 HOURS!  That, my friend, is what they call jet lag.  Avoid at all costs.

Pho on Bat Dan Street.  More subtle and less fragrant than other places but certainly fulfills any need for a comforting bowl of beefy goodness.

Pho on Bat Dan Street. More subtle and less fragrant than other places but certainly fulfills any need for a comforting bowl of beefy goodness.

Day One

  • Sleep until an ungodly hour
  • Dinner at Highway 4
  • Night Market
  • Drinks

Sleeping 19 hours straight only leads to one thing…a ravenous belly.  No, two things…a ravenous belly and severe grogginess.  It was dinner time when we finally left the hotel and entered the world of the living.

Highway 4:  Get the catfish rolls!

Bo Tieu Den:  Beef sautéed in black pepper sauce

Bo Tieu Den: Beef sautéed in black pepper sauce

Nem Ca Xa:  Catfish spring rolls

Nem Ca Xa: Catfish spring rolls

Feast for two!

Feast for two!

An Evening Out:  Night Market and Drinks

The local night market is a great place to roam and purchase souvenirs.  The market basically had the same items found in the shops around town during the day but the draw to this market is not what it has to offer you but the energy it encompasses.  We were only a few among the tourists.  This market seemed to draw the locals out to pick up essentials, mingle with friends and to grab a bite to eat.  For a city that has little to offer for night life, I thought this market was an enjoyable way to walk off dinner and spend the evening.

Nothing like a beefy after dinner treat...

Nothing like a beefy after dinner treat…

...sweet and savory treats.

…sweet and savory treats.

Late night beers...

Late night beers

Just as we were beginning to relax and take it all in with a few beers we were ran off by the police.  After living in NYC for a few years, it is quite normal for us to eat dinner at 9pm and then head out for a drink.  Not quite possible in Hanoi.  The police rolled up in a truck and banged their long clubs on the bar’s awning.  We were quite surprised but quickly realized we were expected to leave and the bar owner needed to close down quickly for the curfew.  Plan according if you are used to late nights!

Day Two

  • Morning run around Hoan Kiem Lake
  • Bảo Tàng Dân Tộc Học Việt Nam (Vietnam Museum of Ethnology)
  • Don’s Tây Hồ (A Chef’s Bistro)
  • Hỏa Lò (Hoa Lo Prison or “Hanoi Hilton”)
  • Dinner at Essence Café and Restaurant
Jog around the lake...

Jog around the lake…

Our epic night of sleep apparently didn’t do us any good – jet lag still had it’s hold on us.  So…after lying wide awake in the wee hours of the morning, Jonathan and I decided to go for a run.  Since we were staying in the old quarter we decided to head out towards Hoan Kiem Lake.  We may have been the only ones up due to jet lag but definitely not the only ones who happened to be out exercising.  In the early hazy hours of the morning, you will find crowds of people at the lake.  Some doing yoga, some Tai Chi, and others jogging along beside us.

Vietnamese coffee post run.  Our only defense against the 12 hour time zone difference...and well, it's simply addicting.

Vietnamese coffee post run. Our only defense against the 12 hour time zone difference…and well, it’s simply addicting.

Bảo Tàng Dân Tộc Học Việt Nam (Vietnam Museum of Ethnology)

The great thing about being on vacation means that you don’t have to follow a schedule.  The downfall is without proper planning and scheduling you just might miss some things.  We had planned to start out our day at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  Despite our early morning run, we took our time getting ready and enjoying breakfast.  By the time we arrived, the line was epic and it was raining.  We didn’t come all this way to spend an afternoon soaked and waiting in line…so we improvised.

We hopped in a cab and headed to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology.  Glad we did!  The museum, although small, had much to offer in the way of learning about the culture and makeup of the Vietnamese people.  The museum highlights the tremendous amount of ethnic groups the are the backbone of the country.  I learned so much and it was a great way to escape the nonstop drizzle.

Don’s Tây Hồ (A Chef’s Bistro)

Oyster bar and views of the lake.  Yes please.  For lunch, we headed away from old quarter and towards West Lake.  Here you will find a less populated and more relaxing area to unwind.  Don’s Tay Ho has an eclectic mix of modern and traditional Vietnamese food as well as some international dishes that draw in an array of locals and tourists alike.  We sat down and devoured a lunch that would have probably fed a group of four.

Lunch overlooking West Lake

Lunch overlooking West Lake

 

Hỏa Lò (Hoa Lo Prison or “Hanoi Hilton”)

I was intrigued by this place…any prison that has Hilton in it’s nickname seems worthy of a visit.  Maybe that’s just me; I do love sarcasm.  This prison was a bit creepy but didn’t leave you with the skin-crawling sensation you can get from such sites (I happen to like that). However, it was interesting to learn about the history of the museum and the people that were once imprisoned there.  As we walked through and I was taking it all in, it became very clear that much of the information presented to the visitors appeared biased.  Bothersome but still worthwhile.  I was quite excited to see the guillotine room.  I can’t really explain why this was appealing but it was…I also found the artifacts and media covering John McCain’s imprisonment interesting (he was held as a POW at Hỏa Lò Prison in 1967).

Hỏa Lò Prison

Hỏa Lò Prison

 

Dinner at Essence Café and Restaurant

Surprisingly enough, we were able to muster up more energy to shower and head out to dinner.  Glad we did too because we had a fantastic dinner.  Essence Restaurant is ranked number two on Trip Advisor for restaurants in Hanoi.  You can expect great service and authentic Vietnamese food… and a long wait time if you don’t make a reservation.

Essence Restaurant in Old Quarter

Essence Restaurant in Old Quarter

Want to read more about this trip, check out Part Two

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For a gourmet wine is not a drink but a condiment, provided that your host has chosen correctly. – Edouard De Pomaine

Eleven Madison Park

May 2013

The Surprise

It was the eve of my latest birthday.  Jonathan and I were meandering through Madison Square Park on our way to my surprise dinner he had planned.  Our taxi had dropped us off several blocks west of the park and as we were walking and chatting away, I was racking my brain; thinking of all the restaurants in a half mile radius that we might be heading towards.  Gramercy Tavern?  Three blocks south, but we were heading east.  Hanjan?  Two blocks northwest…not it.  Blue Hill?  Close, but too far south to walk comfortably in my pencil skirt and stilettos; he would have certainly taken us closer to the place by taxi.  ABC Kitchen?  Kin Shop?  Where on the earth are we going?  I didn’t actually say any of the above aloud because this man does not divulge any hints or clues to his surprises…never, never ever.

It wasn’t until we stopped for a moment to watch a live filming of Sesame Street that it all dawned on me.  I looked at Jonathan and asked if he thought they always film in Madison Square Park.  When I said those last three words, I heard this echo in my brain.. Madison Square Park, Madison Square Park, holy moly!!  We are going to Eleven Madison Park!!!  One block east…the direction we had been heading all along.  I could see the entrance.  I wanted to scream to all around me that I just guessed where I’m having dinner.  That would just be totally wrong because if you know anything about NYC parks…you can scream anything you like and no one is going to acknowledge you, I would seem like a spoiled asshole AND the other reason I couldn’t scream it… Jonathan has this thing, if I guess right on any surprise or present then I don’t get it.  Not that I really think he would ever do such a thing but there was no way in hell that I was going to jeopardize this chance to dine at Eleven Madison Park!

A Birthday Dinner to Remember

A Birthday Dinner to Remember

The Experience

Walking into EMP is like walking into a spacious art gallery except instead of gazing at art you are gazing at the wait staff, completely dumbfounded by how they just appear and disappear when needed.  They are everywhere but nowhere.  It is honestly quite extraordinary.  Diners were greatly outnumbered by the staff.  But the beauty of this is that you never ever have to wait for a thing and they seem to be completely invisible until your face gives a look as if you may be thinking you want something…and poof!  Like magic they appear before you even confirmed to yourself that you really needed to ask that dying question or that you would like another glass of wine.

And the real experience…the best I’ve ever eaten, hands down.  Arguably my favorite fine dining experience and easy to see how Chef Daniel Humm has been awarded the highest of all honors; three Michelin stars.

Every course was a testament to how beautifully balanced and layered flavors can make any ordinary dish explode.  Even the most delicate of all dishes, an oyster, was intensely flavored with simple wood sorrel and buckwheat.  In a city with many extraordinarily talented chefs, you might wonder what makes EMP so special.  Amongst many things, the two most evident reasons that EMP should be on any gourmand’s to-do list are the locally sourced ingredients that inspire the menu and the theatrical experience of dining here.

Eleven Madison Park’s menu is created from a love of New York.  It’s hard to believe that with 16 courses, almost everything on the menu can be found on a farm or a shop nearby.  Even the cheese on the 11th course (a picnic basket filled with pretzels, mustard, beer and cheese) was aged in the caves of the famous NYC cheese shop, Murray’s, in West Village.

Having been lucky enough to dine at many highly acclaimed restaurants, I’m familiar with the little things that restaurants do to surprise their diners or showcase their food.  What I wasn’t prepared for during this meal was how entertaining each course was in the way it was presented to us.  At some points our table was full of a mist from a table top clam bake, later we were watching our carrots being hand-driven through a meat grinder and near the end of our meal I was beyond delighted to dig into my picnic basket to discover one of my favorite cheeses.  This style of presentation has serious potential to come off as artificial and overdone but that was certainly not the case.  We enjoyed every moment and was impressed by all the details put in creating and presenting each course.

Our Menu

Course One

Cheddar Savory Black & White Cookie with Apple

CHEDDAR
Savory Black & White Cookie with Apple

Course Two

Oyster Wood Sorrel, Buckwheat, & Mignonette

OYSTER
Wood Sorrel, Buckwheat, & Mignonette

Course Three

Asparagus Custard with Caviar & Rhubarb

ASPARAGUS
Custard with Caviar & Rhubarb

course3b.jpg

Course Four

Surf Clam Fava Bean, Meyer Lemon, & Green Garlic

SURF CLAM
Fava Bean, Meyer Lemon, & Green Garlic

Course Five

Littleneck Clam Clambake with Whelk, Parker House Roll, & Chowder

LITTLENECK CLAM
Clambake with Whelk, Parker House Roll, & Chowder

Course5b.jpg

course5c.jpg

Bread & Butter

Rolls Bacon Fat Butter & Goat's Milk Butter

ROLLS
Bacon Fat Butter & Goat’s Milk Butter

course5e.jpg

Course Six

Foie Gras Terrine with Black Truffle & Asparagus

FOIE GRAS
Terrine with Black Truffle & Asparagus

Course Seven

Carrot Tartare with Rye Bread & Condiments

CARROT
Tartare with Rye Bread & Condiments

course7b.jpg

Course Eight

Lobster Poached with Snap Peas, Morels, & Sweetbreads (my favorite course)

LOBSTER
Poached with Snap Peas, Morels, & Sweetbreads
(my favorite course)

In Preparation of... Showcasing the beef that will come two courses later

In Preparation of…
Showcasing the beef that will come two courses later

Course Nine

Nettles Creamed with Fingerling Potato and Goat Cheese

NETTLES
Creamed with Fingerling Potato and Goat Cheese

Amuse Bouche

Beef Broth

BEEF BROTH

Course Ten

Beef Grilled with Mushrooms, Amaranth, & Bone Marrow

BEEF
Grilled with Mushrooms, Amaranth, & Bone Marrow

Course Eleven

Greensward Pretzel, Mustard, & Dried Fruit with Ithaca Beer Company's Picnic Basket Ale

GREENSWARD
Pretzel, Mustard, & Dried Fruit with Ithaca Beer Company’s Picnic Basket Ale

Cheese A washed rind also arrived with the picnic basket (my second favorite)

CHEESE
A washed rind also arrived with the picnic basket
(my second favorite course)

Course Twelve

MALT Egg Cream with Vanilla & Seltzer

MALT
Egg Cream with Vanilla & Seltzer

Course12a.jpg

Course Thirteen

SPECIAL REQUEST At the beginning of the meal I asked for a dessert course that would pair well with a stout. I don't recall the ingredients but remember it was a winning combo!

SPECIAL REQUEST
At the beginning of the meal I asked for a dessert course that would pair well with a stout. I don’t recall the ingredients but remember it was a winning combo!

course13b.jpg

Course Fourteen

SHEEP'S MILK Cheesecake with Mango & Peanut...and a birthday candle!

SHEEP’S MILK
Cheesecake with Mango & Peanut…and a birthday candle!

Course Fifteen (Not pictured)

Pretzel

Chocolate Covered with Sea Salt

Course Sixteen

CHOCOLATE Sweet Black & White Cookie with Apricot

CHOCOLATE
Sweet Black & White Cookie with Apricot

Wine Pairing

I selected my quote for this post to make a point and unfortunately, EMP missed the mark on this one.  Wine here was an afterthought, not a condiment.

As wine lovers, we opted for the wine pairing for each course.  It was the only letdown of the evening.  Just like the food, the wine is selected based upon your likes and dislikes.  I told the sommelier that I was not a fan of many white wines but was open to them if he thought that the selected wine was a perfect pairing.  Only three courses turned out to be served with red wine and not one course that was paired with white was a homerun in my opinion.  If I had to do it all over again, I would have ordered a wine that I knew I would love and forget about the pairings.  There’s nothing like experiencing a moment when the combination of food and wine is more grand than the individual components but that did not happen here with my dinner.  For these reasons, I would not suggest a pairing unless you; are not a fan of red wine, don’t want to be bothered with selecting your own wine, or you are new to wine and want to learn a bit during dinner.

Final Thoughts

In my opinion, Eleven Madison Park is worth traveling to New York City just for this one experience.  At $195 a person (wine pairing and gratuity not included), it is an indulgence that most will find hard to partake in.  If you can swing it, do it.  I believe it will be one of your best dining experiences ever…as I said, it is my all-time favorite to date.

Special thanks to my amazing husband, the man who first ignited my passion for good food and fine dining.  You fill my life with so much joy and always make the best dinner partner.  To many more  amazing experiences to come!

xoxo,

Miranda

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I want to be with those who know secret things or else alone. ~ Rainer Maria Rilke

Hotel San Giorgio (on the left)

Beautiful and quaint street in Vis (Vis Island, Croatia)

The Secret

I love Rilke’s quote above. But really, who doesn’t want to be with someone who knows all the secrets? For example, if you happen to live in NYC you may remember the all too recent Speakeasy craze. Location and means of getting through the door was the secret to share with everyone you knew. Almost like a right of passage… I mean, some things are just meant to be shared and I am grateful for those who do! When it comes to travel, the person with all the secrets becomes a saint in my opinion. There’s nothing worse than hearing how you missed an opportunity to participate in something abroad just after you’ve returned from your journey.

And for that reason alone…I will share my little secret for those who plan to travel to Croatia.

The Discovery

While planning our honeymoon, Jonathan and I became a bit uneasy about our last destination. We had planned three days in Prague, four in Budapest and then had seven to plan for in Croatia. After overloading our brains on what we wanted to do, should do and couldn’t miss out on…we felt lost and back to square one in the planning stage. We had so much we wanted to experience in Croatia and much of it were things not easily done by purchasing a ticket or making a reservation.

We were hesitant. Really, on the break of throwing in the towel and extending our stay elsewhere. Until I just happened to discover the man who could make it all happen…and on any budget. This discovery is my secret to share!

While enjoying a glass of wine and doing some fun food googling one weekend evening, I came across a website that made me all too excited to get back to planning our trip to Croatia. I happened to come across a site, Culinary Croatia. After some playing around it all dawned on me…we could actually have it all – on our top to-dos in Croatia was a cooking class and to experience wine, either through a special wine tasting experience or visiting vineyards. I dug a little deeper and discovered that we could do everything we wanted with a little help from someone with all the secrets. That website led me to Secret Dalmatia, the ‘end all’ to our reluctance and frustration with planning this trip.

Secret Dalmatia

We aren’t the typical travelers that make use of travel agents or other sources before heading abroad. We usually have a plan we’ve made ourselves and somehow make it happen on our own. But Secret Dalmatia had so much to offer and could plan everything that we wanted…by insiders with our best interests at heart.

I wrote down a list of all we wanted to accomplish and contacted Secret Dalmatia. After a quick rundown of our budget and a list of what we wanted to do and where we wanted to go. The agent immediately reviewed my responses and summarized what we wanted overall…he totally got us. I got off the phone feeling completely reassured that he would, no doubt, find us the perfect places to stay and the right balance of personalized experiences and down time to relax and explore on our own.

My list looked something like this:

  • boutique/locally owned hotels within our budget that were more about sharing their culture rather than accommodating to ours
  • cities/locations that were vibrant/lively that offered lots of opportunities to mix with locals – less touristy destinations but with much to occupy our time
  • a cooking class – preferably private (just so you know, we were blown away by the experience we got!…post coming soon)
  • a wine tasting or a private trip to a vineyard
  • a beach destination that is more relaxing than anything else – no extreme nightlife required
  • destinations where food mattered – staying someplace where we could experience fine dining as well as great street food was a must
  • time to do nothing or plan our own excursions

The Experience

Within a week, we got a draft of our trip. Everything met or exceeded our expectations and was still within our budget! We were not expecting private transportation to all our destinations and the best rooms in the hotels we stayed but that’s what we got! It was immediately evident that once we checked in we were in good hands due to the fact that we had booked through Secret Dalmatia. It is apparent that the owner and founder of Secret Dalmatia, Alan Mandic, is well-respected in the tourism community. We were treated with so much respect without it being overbearing.

To top off the experience, we were given many recommendations for great restaurants in the areas we were staying. I have to say, as a true ‘Yelp’er, I rely heavily on recommendations and reviews when deciding on a place to eat. Every personal recommendation was beyond amazing. We were able to enjoy authentic Croatian food like the locals without having to do any research on our own.

The Gallery

The photographs below are only a small bit of our trip to Croatia. For more details on our experience or to see what we did and everywhere we stayed check out the links below the gallery.

Split, Croatia

Split, Croatia

Hotel Peristil (Split, Croatia)

Hotel Peristil (Split, Croatia)

Klub Gurmana i Hedonista (Split, Croatia)

Private wine tasting experience at Klub Gurmana i Hedonista (Split, Croatia)

Private tour of Diocletian's Palace in Split, Croatia (this is a photo of the model of the palace outside the entrance)

Private tour of Diocletian’s Palace in Split, Croatia (this is a photo of the model of the palace outside the entrance)

Best tour guide ever!  If you aren't a history buff before the tour you will be at the end - she was so enthusiastic and made history come alive!  To top it off, she taught us how to take it easy and enjoy a shot of rakija like the locals.  If I ever return to Split and she is there...I will find her!

Best tour guide ever! If you aren’t a history buff before the tour you will be at the end – she was so enthusiastic and made history come alive! To top it off, she taught us how to take it easy and enjoy a shot of rakija like the locals. If I ever return to Split I will find her!

Private day of cooking with Tatjana in Trogir at her home in a 13th century palace! Here, Jonathan and Tatjana are prepping the fish...Best experience of the trip!

Private day of cooking with chef Tatjana Ciciliani, in Trogir, at her home in a 13th century palace! Here, Jonathan and Tatjana are prepping fish…Best experience of the trip!

View of the town of Vis. (Vis Island, Croatia)

View of the town of Vis from the hillside (Vis Island, Croatia)

Our view from our room at Hotel San Giorgio (Vis Island, Croatia)

A great view from our room at Hotel San Giorgio; with unexpected champagne and fruit as a honeymoon welcome gift (Vis Island, Croatia)

Lobster, typical Croatian potatoes (boiled then drizzled with olive oil and herbs) and swiss chard - not pictured: dinner at Villa Kaliopa in Vis

Lobster, typical Croatian potatoes (boiled then drizzled with olive oil and herbs) and swiss chard – not pictured: dinner at Villa Kaliopa in Vis

Croatia – Part One

  • Split

Croatia – Part Two

  • Vis Island

Croatia – Part Three

  • Vis Island

Croatia – Part Four

  • Vis Island

Croatia – Part Five

  • Zagreb

The Verdict ~ Book your trip to Croatia for a romantic or adventurous getaway, full of history and culture, great food, relaxation, and lovely people. If you want to experience Croatia like a local then book your trip through Secret Dalmatia where Alan Mandic and his team will customize your experience exactly as you want. For all of you skeptics, this is not a paid advertisement…I love to share my experiences and only hope that the next person has as great of an experience as we did. Please comment if you have any travel questions!

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To the complaint, ‘There are no people in these photographs,’ I respond, there are always two people: the photographer and the viewer.  ― Ansel Adams

ZAGREB, CROATIA

July 27 – 29, 2012

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Final Days of our Honeymoon

After almost two weeks of traveling through Eastern Europe, we still wanted more…  We left the Island of Vis with sad hearts.  We were having too much fun to leave – the journey to the next city is always exciting; unless it’s your last.  We spent a day of travel by taxi, ferry, and train, finally arriving in Zagreb exhausted.  The last destination on our honeymoon.  We would only have one full day to explore the city.  So we set out for some beers and snacks to get us through what was left of the evening and to plan how we would spend the following day.

Hotel Dubrovnik

After beers were consumed and plans were sort of made (nothing is ever set in stone for us) we went to check in for the night.  We were staying at Hotel Dubrovnik near Jelacic Square.  This hotel lacked personality, was quite unattractive inside and out but the location and price made it an excellent choice.  We didn’t get to explore much with our limited time so staying in a vibrant, easily accessible area was key.

A Day in Zagreb

What do you plan when you have 24 hours to see a city?  After looking over our options the night before, we decided we would opt to spend most of our day in Zagreb actually outside of Zagreb…it was the best decision possible.

After waking and grabbing a quick coffee we went straight to the tourist information center in Jelacic Square.  Really, the last stop I thought we would be making but we had no choice.  We wanted to go to Plitvice Lakes National Park and considering it was several hours of a drive away and after 9am we knew we were going to need help in getting there quickly.  Once we arrived we immediately found out that we were too late for the tour to the park.  It leaves quite early and we missed it by at least an hour or more.

Remembering our lesson from earlier in our trip, Jonathan decided to ask for details in how to get a private tour guide to take us there and back as well as take us through the park.  I sat back thinking this was a crazy request.  But to my surprise – we had a deal.  The local tourism office found an English-speaking guide, a car and driver and to top it off – a decent price, not much more than a group tour on a bus.  Our guide and driver would be ready for us within 90 minutes so we had some time to spare.

Dolac Market

Wish I could say we knew about this market but we didn’t.  It just happened to be right off the main square.  We needed to find something to pack for lunch for our trip and we stumbled upon this place by accident.   How did we not know about this?  It was true luck.  Jonathan and I love going to markets, especially in other countries.  Markets are a great way to learn about the local people and to better understand their cuisine.

Dolac market is a must see if you are in Zagreb.  It is over eighty years old and had all that you could wish for in a market.  If you move from the main square towards the market you first encounter flowers and plants of all kinds.  From there you go up the steps to a huge space where in the center there is a bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables, really too large to see from standing in one spot.  Surrounding the middle are cheese and cream vendors and little stands selling quick, affordable lunches.  Below all of this is where you will find fishmongers and butchers.

We pick up our lunch here.  Some bread, lots of cheese and fruit.

Flower vendors leading up to the main area of Dolac Market

Flower vendors leading up to the main area of Dolac Market

Jonathan buying fruit for our lunch

Jonathan buying fruit

Fresh dairy!  A cheese centered lunch...yum

Fresh dairy! A cheese centered lunch…yum

Notice all the red umbrellas at the market…we later found out from our tour guide that there is a reason why they are red and the story is a romantic one.  Of course I was all ears, these are little tidbits that I love to hear.  I’m no historian so here’s my abbreviated version of this story:  boy loves girl, kisses girl in rain, black umbrella turns red, there is a rainbow, suddenly a red umbrella is a symbol of love, a Zagreb souvenir is born.  Awwww, so sweet.  Don’t bring an umbrella to Zagreb.  Buy one here.  Maybe you will get hit by this lucky love bug!

Another 45 minutes to spare.  We meet our tour guide, pay up and then head out for coffee and a walk in the Zrinjevac until our driver arrives.

Walking around in Zrinjevac - a mini park near the main square

Walking around in Zrinjevac – a mini park near the main square

Plitvice Lakes National Park

I’m easily enthralled by large furry animals, extraordinary acts of kindness, charming old men, people with unfathomable talents, and stunning panoramic views of nature.  Ok…that was a bit much but so true, if you know me well, all of the above just crumbles my senses in so many ways, often making me cry or taking my breath away.  The last in that list is what is relevent here.  Plitvice Lakes National Park seriously was the most beautiful place I have ever seen.  I was seriously captivated by mother nature herself.  Left breathless and complete serene, so much so that I could have toured the entire park in silence…except that every few minutes with visual sense in overload, I found myself smiling and uttering how beautiful every inch of the park was then back to silence again..

Plitvice Lakes deserves a post of its own.  So I give you a link to satisfy your curiosity now along with a few teaser photos until I dedicate a page to this tour only.  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/98

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia

Plitvice is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is protected and preserved

Plitvice is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is protected and preserved

Awww.....the Honeymooners!

I am blessed to have the life that I do.  I am beyond grateful for the man I now call my husband.  Our journey started over 13 years ago but it truly feels like we are just getting started.

This was the last day of our honeymoon.  As much as I would like to keep the honeymoon tale going I will close here.  Some things are meant to be shared but the most precious moments  are left to be savored by those who hold the memories.  I look forward to recounting future travels and our big moments as they come but as for our last evening…it’s simply that – ours.

Croatia is for Lovers

I can’t say it enough.  Croatia is for lovers.  Go there with someone you love.  Delight in every moment, relax in the sun and by the sea, spend your evenings with a great glass of Croatian wine, fresh seafood and good conversation. 

Honeymoon Itinerary Recap

For a more in-depth summary of our trip go here.  You can find details of where we stayed, our little adventures and our favorites spots in each location.

  1. Czech Republic: Prague – 3 nights
  2. Hungary:  Budapest – 4 nights
  3. Croatia:  3 destinations – 7 nights (Split, Vis, Zagreb)

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