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To seek is to suffer.  To seek nothing is bliss.  ~ Bodhidharma

Kitulgala, Sri Lanka

December 27 – 29, 2014

Breathtaking views found on the drive from Colombo to Kitugala

Breathtaking views found on the drive from Colombo to Kitulgala

A light mist dances all around.  A soothing waterfall ebbs gently from the mountain creating a hypnotic sound, mother natures own therapeutic drug.  Perched on a branch six feet away, a kingfisher stands entranced by the tranquility of Kitulgala.  I, too, sit motionless.  Here, even the most turbulent mind will succumb to peace.

Getting There

We left Colombo early morning on the 27th.  Our plan was to head inward towards the hill country.  Our first stop outside the capital, Kitulgala, was a bit off the beaten path.  Tucked away into the low mountains, Kitulgala is an unlikely destination and usually just a passageway for travelers making their way from Colombo to Nuwara Eliya.  In the most recent years, this town has grown more popular as a white water rafting and jungle trekking destination.  Maps can be deceiving considering the roads to hill country are not flat nor straight.  What seemed like it should take an hour ended up being a four hour drive.  Luckily, the views were jaw dropping and made time pass by quickly.

Lodging & Food:  Royal River Resort

Exploring:  white water rafting

Royal River Resort

If you are looking for a serious escape and don’t mind a 30 minute, 6km drive deep into the jungle and away from everything else then you will be in heaven at Royal River Resort.  This four room resort is situated (literally built into) a waterfall that cascades across every view from any one of the rooms, pool, or dining area.  Each room has a fireplace and a balcony.  Other than swimming, reading, and dining at this resort, there’s not much else to do and you have to account for a long semi-scary drive to the main road.  That being said, you can arrange any excursions with the staff or your driver if you hired one.  This was the perfect place to decompress, adjust to the time change and recharge for the rest of our journey through Sri Lanka.

Royal River Resort:  Kitulgala, Sri Lanka

Royal River Resort: Kitulgala, Sri Lanka

Inside views at Royal River Resort

Inside views at Royal River Resort; the fireplace was my favorite feature, especially on our first cool, rainy night.

Authentic rice and curry meal at the resort; not on the menu but you can request it (make sure to do so about 6 hours in advance)

Authentic rice and curry meal at the resort; not on the menu but you can request it (make sure to do so about 6 hours in advance).  This was for two people!

White Water Rafting on the Kelani River

On our second day, we decided to request a white water rafting trip (through our driver) and were connected with the company, White Water Rafting 99 (no website).  I grew up near great rafting in southern WV so in comparison, this was more like a lazy river ride with a few class 3 or 4 rapids.  That being said, this is so worth your trip just for the views.  I did not have my camera with me so I didn’t get to capture any of it.  To give you an idea of how beautiful this area is, watch The Bridge on the River Kwai.  It was filmed on the Kelani River and your rafting experience will take you past where the bridge was destroyed.  One tip if you go rafting: DON’T SWALLOW THE WATER.

Going to Sri Lanka?

I highly recommend staying a night or two in Kitulgala, mainly to stay at the Royal River Resort. As long as you aren’t afraid of long, narrow roads leading you away from civilization you will be in heaven!  My suggestion is to plan this stop on your way to Nuwara Eliya or Ella from Colombo or reverse.

After we left Kitulgala, we headed further east towards Nuwara Eliya to visit a tea plantation. To read more about our Sri Lankan itinerary, click here. For more about our previous stop in Colombo, click here.

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The traveler sees what he sees, the tourists sees what he has come to see.  ~ Gilbert K. Chesterton

COLOMBO, SRI LANKA

December 26 & January 3, 2015

Manning Market

Manning Market

Colombo was a starting and ending point for our road trip around hill country and the south of Sri Lanka.  I arrived with very little expectations.  What I had read about Colombo left me unimpressed.  Sometimes this is a great thing because you can be easily surprised and delighted by the unexpected.  After a full day of wondering the city in search of good eats and interesting places I was left feeling confident that we made the best decision to stay only one night in Colombo.  My lens is very narrow and I am sure I missed a lot of what Colombo has to offer but if one place doesn’t have an initial draw, why wait to be convinced?  Life is short.  Move on.

Colombo (The Beginning)

Lodging: Decoco Guest House

Food:  Pilawoos (Hotel de), Sponge Bakery, Arpico

Drink:  Castle Hotel 

Explore:  Manning Market, sunset at Galle Face Green

Lodging

Guest houses are a dime a dozen in Sri Lanka.  Decoco Guest House was a nice place to stay for a night.  Was it fantastic? No…but it was certainly fine.  The owners were very accommodating and helped us with a few unusually difficult situations that we’ve never had to handle in another country.  Other than that I would say this guest house was quite average.  The location is hard to find on your own and also hard for drivers to find; if you are choosing a place based on location, I would suggest you skip Decoco.

Food

After settling our things at the guesthouse we headed out to explore for the day.  When staying in a city for as little as 24 hours, you have to decide wisely on how to spend your time.  Food was our number one must do, especially after so many endless hours in flight and in airports.  One of my favorite ways to experience food, culture, and the people of a new place is to visit the city’s markets.  We started our journey by heading to Manning Market.  It’s Colombo’s wholesale fruit and vegetable market.  It is cheap, if that is what you are looking for.  After roaming for nearly 45 minutes, everything seemed unappealing.  We left hungry but I knew just the place to brighten our spirits…

Hotel de Pilawoos…not a hotel but a 24/7 joint that serves the city’s best short eats.  We sat down and devoured two huge plates of kotthu roti.  This is hangover food at its best and is the meal everyone should have after a long flight.  Get the kotthu with cheese, I promise you, you will like it.  Spicy, with loads of texture from the chopped roti and a bit of creaminess from the cheese.  Dig in!

Kotthu Roti at Hotel de Pilawoos: 417 Galle Road

Kotthu Roti at Hotel de Pilawoos: 417 Galle Roada

Although we had plenty to eat, Jonathan always manages to find room for something sweet.  A short walk down the street from Pilawoos and we find ourselves in Sponge bakery.  Another miss.  But that doesn’t stop him from finishing his plate.

Passion fruit and yogurt cake at Sponge

Passion fruit and yogurt cake at Sponge

We had plans to meet up with some friends who were having an unfortunate stay at the hospital so for dinner we headed to a grocery store with the hopes of finding some easily transportable edibles.  We went to Arpico which reminded me of a super Walmart with more interesting groceries.  I mention this because if you find yourself in need of anything from snacking cheese to perfume…you will find it at Arpico.

Exploring

With a little guidance from Lonely Planet, we decided to walk toward Galle Face Green.  It’s recommended as a fantastic spot to indulge in some treats from street vendors and to watch the sunset. Jonathan and I have fun just about anywhere and Galle Face Green was no exception but I wouldn’t recommend it as a place for street food or to see the sunset (unless it’s an unusually clear day).  However, it was nice for people watching and there’s something worthy of your time if you take in a bit of the culture here.  After an hour of lounging on the wall by the beach, I began to gather how connected Sri Lankan families are.  There were so many families walking or playing together.  Everyone seemed happy and enjoying their time connecting with each other and the outdoors. This seemed to me like a daily pleasure rather than a family vacationing together.  A lesson our society could stand to learn, where the couch and television are too often the centerpiece of the evening.

Galle Face Green

Galle Face Green

Drinks

Intrigued by Lonely Planet’s description of Castle Hotel (a misnomer at best) as a “timeless boozer offering up cheap drafts” and located in “once-posh surroundings”, we headed that way; other options were nearly all overpriced cocktails in locales swimming with tourists.  Upon arriving, I sensed this moment was going to be a game changer for me. Something about the looks I received upon entering, the dim lighting and lack of any appeal to the interior had me on guard.

Priding ourselves on our ability to face discomfort in the eye, we proceeded to find a table and order some drafts. It was quickly evident, a female in this bar was not a typical or likely occurrence. We were offered a seat in a different section of the bar when we entered but turned it down to be in the main area where it seemed more lively.  I think that was the first hint we overlooked, the second came when our table was approached by a man who took our order without ever looking at me.  He would only address Jonathan until I finally spoke up on our second or third round. He wasn’t unfriendly by any means and eventually gave me a kind smile. Uncomfortable as I was, the cold drafts were quite welcoming. I always hope to be considerate of others’ beliefs and customs yet never apologetic for being a female.  So I sat with a bit of uncertainty.  At the end, I withstood the initial desire to leave and rather enjoyed the hour or so at Castle Hotel.  I would return again…next time, without any trepidation.  In fact, I highly recommend it.  From this post, it appears that it may not exist much longer.

SLCCH.jpg

Castle Hotel

Colombo (The Ending)

Lodging: Cinnamon Grand Hotel 

Food:  Beach Wadiya

I have to say, by the time we were headed back to Colombo I was very sad, and not because I didn’t fully enjoy it the first time.  I was sad to come to the realization that our travels were quickly coming to an end and we were also having to part ways with two of our best friends.  The country blew my expectations out of the water.  It was absolutely one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.  I would go back in a heartbeat to experience the rest of the country we were unable to see.  I look forward to sharing the next steps in our Sri Lankan journey.  Up next, two nights in Kitugala. Stay tuned!

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As with any journey, who you travel with can be more important than your destination. – Unknown

TAIWAN

July 31 – August 10, 2013

taiwan flag

It’s been over a year since I traveled to Taiwan and with that much time between, my retelling is not as acute as I would like. One thing is for sure; traveling with truly smart, interesting and adventurous people will leave an ever-lasting etch in one’s memory.

If you followed my previous post, you already know that prior to meeting up with two of our great friends, we spent about a week in Vietnam.  We had an amazing time but the best was yet to come. Unfortunately, Jonathan and I became quite ill on our way from one country to the next.  In a matter of 24 hours we went from energetic, giddy travelers to ones on a hunt for a true medicine man to cure our ailments.  We had no real luck and were both probably the sickest we have ever been but that didn’t stop us from making the most of our adventure.

Two Couples

We are quite lucky to have such amazing friends. It would take a whole other blog to explain how we have met some of the finest people around but to make it simple, the four of us met over a decade ago while living in Washington, DC.  One thing for sure is that distance never breaks up a true friendship.  Jonathan and I now reside in New York City while Dave and Alex are living in another great city, Singapore.  That hasn’t stopped us from getting together.  We’ve made a point to make the globe our playground….and who do you want to go out and see at the playground??? Your friends!

Miranda & Jonathan

Miranda & Jonathan; living in New York City

Alexandra & David

Alexandra & David; living in Singapore

The Adventurers

The Adventurers

One Car

If you really want to explore and don’t mind getting lost (come on, that’s how you find the best places), you should rent a car while traveling.  Terrible at working that GPS?  Try figuring it out in Mandarin!  Bonus – you will actually get to know your travel companions even better.  Who knew Alex had the uncanny ability to tell you the release year of just about any song she hears?  It’s a rare gift, especially when she has never heard the song before…crazy talent I would have never discovered had the four of us not been squeezed into a little vehicle packed with over flowing suitcases, 7eleven snacks, and a never-ending supply of tissue boxes.

The Island of Taiwan

Our Itinerary:

  • Taipei:
  • Kenting
  • Taitung
  • Haulien
  • Yuanshan
  • Taipei

Taipei (The Beginning)

Lodging: Muzik Hotel

Food:  James Kitchen, Old Wang’s Beef Noodle Soup, Din Tai Fung

Drink:  Wistaria Tea House, Revolver

Explore:  Keelung Temple Night Market, Shilin Night Market, Longshan Temple

James Kitchen

James Kitchen, Da’an District

Din Tai Fung, Da'an District

Din Tai Fung, Da’an District

Wistaria Tea House, Da'an District

Wistaria Tea House, Da’an District

Keelung Temple Night Market, Keelung

Keelung Temple Night Market, Keelung

Old Wang's Beef Noodle Soup, Jhong Jheng District

Old Wang’s Beef Noodle Soup, Jhong Jheng District

Shilin Night Market, Shilin District

Shilin Night Market, Shilin District

 Kenting

Lodging:  Uni Resort

Food & Drink:  Kenting Street Night Market

Explore: Hiking in Kenting National Park, Eluanbi Lighthouse

Kenting National Park

Kenting National Park

Eluanbi Lighthouse

Eluanbi Lighthouse

Kenting Street Night Market

Kenting Street Night Market

 Taitung

Explore: Hiking in Jhihben National Forest

Jhihben National Forest Recreation Area

Jhihben National Forest Recreation Area

Hualien

Lodging:  Silks Place,  Tienhsiang Youth Activity Center

Food & Drink:  Mei Yuan, The Wellesley

Explore: Baiyang Waterfall Trail,  Swallow Grotto Trail, Lianhua Pond Trail

TWTG1.jpg

Baiyang Waterfall Trail

Swollow Grotto Trail

Swallow Grotto Trail

Lianhua Pond Trail

Lianhua Pond Trail

Yuanshan

Explore:  Kavalan Distillery

Kavalan Whiskey Distillery

Kavalan Whiskey Distillery

Taipei (The Ending)

Food:  Shao Shao Ke

Drinks & Entertainment:  Sublime, Brown Sugar, inHouse, KTV @ Party World

Shao Shao Ke, Zhōngzhèng District

Shao Shao Ke, Zhōngzhèng District

The Grand Finale

The Grand Finale

Verdict ~ Make your own road trip in Taiwan.  You will not be disappointed.  Vibrant, bustling cities full of culture, some of the most interesting and delicious street food in the world, breathtaking mountains, and gorgeous beaches…how could you go wrong? 

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Help Me Plan Our Vacation!

Hanoi & Halong Bay, Vietnam

Have you been to Vietnam?  Ever traveled to Hanoi or Halong Bay?  Do you live in one of these areas?  If so, I would love your insider tips!  Jonathan and I are leaving big city life behind for a bit and dusting off our suitcases for another trip to Asia.

We love good food, unusual experiences, and more off-the-beaten-path kind of ideas.  If you have an idea, I would love to hear it!  Please give us your tips/secrets/advice below in the reply/comment section.  If you are viewing the link from my homepage, then you must find the ‘leave a comment’ tab to make the comment box open.   If we happen to go with one of your suggestions, I will be certain to connect with you after our trip to share our experience.

Here are the details that may help you narrow down your suggestions:

  • We are there for one week
  • We already have a hotel in Hanoi booked (in the Old Quarter)
  • We plan to travel from Hanoi to Halong Bay for an overnight boating experience

All my best,

Miranda

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