Cooking done with passion is an act of love. – Tammy Mollai
TROGIR, CROATIA
July 2012
Chef Tatjana Ciciliani in her kitchen
Last year, during our honeymoon in Eastern Europe, Jonathan and I got the pleasure of spending a day of shopping, cooking, and dining with the passionate chef, Tatjana Ciciliani. Of all of our adventures on this trip, this is the one that we will cherish and remember forever. For more details on how we found Tatjana check out my post, The Secret to Traveling in Croatia.
The Kitchen. The heart and soul of a home.
Deep within the walls of a 13 century palace, lies a kitchen. Not just any ordinary kitchen but one that is so full of love and passion that this incredible warmth spills out into the streets and entrances passersby. This kitchen, unlike any kitchen I have ever had the pleasure of entering, has its own pulse. It beats with energy yet is soothing and slows time which can easily make you forget that hours have passed and you’ve created enough food to feed a village. This kitchen belongs to Tatjana Ciciliani. A brilliant chef, a culinary artist, a mother, a wife, a friend to everyone. A passionate, loving, and joyful woman whom has changed the way I will forever view cooking and whose influence I will never be able to fully capture in words.
Tatjana is the type of person you meet for the first time and you immediately wish you had known forever. Her kindness and joy of life is simply contagious. After spending a day with her, you will not only be incredibly inspired but you will also feel as if you just traveled deep into the core of Croatia. I learned more about the Croatian culture in this single experience than I could have ever imagined.
Lessons Learned. More than a recipe.
Rather than write the specifics of our trip to the markets, what we bought and what we cooked, I feel drawn to share our experience through the lessons I learned while cooking with Tatjana.
- Make use of all your senses. Taste is only one aspect of selecting ingredients to cook. Investigate everything, pick things up, feel them, smell them, listen and talk to the vendors. Buying quality, in-season and local ingredients will not only yield a better dish but will also bring you closer to your land and your community.
- Waste nothing. Unless it’s an old cucumber…it goes in the stock! Or somewhere else equally important like infusing salt! I can’t remember how many times I almost discarded what seemed like a useless peel or the top of an onion and was caught by Tatjana. It was like she had eyes in the back of her head! I had no idea how easy it was to make use of every single bit. Why have I been so wasteful? I was astonished by how many items seemed disposable moments before suddenly transformed into something totally new and delicious. Fish bones, onion tops, stems of herbs, soggy old vegetables, extra flour from bread making…
- Don’t rush. Be patient. Slow down and enjoy the process. I don’t remember one timer being set. We cooked for hours, yet somehow the morning and afternoon blended into one magnificent experience. We had pots and pots of items boiling away, bread rising, fish waiting to be descaled while out in the blazing sun…and not once did we ever rush or worry about time. I’ve never felt so nourished physically and mentally after a meal.
- Buy wholesome food to feed the people you love. Not one item we used was from a can or a box. Every item was traceable to the earth or the sea…not a factory.
- Make what you love and love what you make. Everything tastes better when you’ve created it from your heart.
The Gallery. From market to belly.
Learning how to select the freshest fish at the market in Trogir
Farmers market in Trogir
After hearing me rave about cheese, Tatjana selects some cheese for us to try
Tatjana whips up a delicious cheese plate with honey and figs
You know you want a bite, don’t you!?
Getting ready!
Loving the denim apron!
Gutting the fish
Tatjana giving all the hard work to Jonathan…haha!
Breading the sardines after descaling them
Happily chopping along…
Teamwork in the kitchen!
We got all this going on and more…risotto, fish stock, fried sardines and bread rising
Tatjana teaching me how to make a delicious cheese and olive loaf
My turn!
Working with the cuttlefish…
Ready to fry!
Frying sardines
Final product!! So delicious and crispy
Such a fresh and simple salad, straight from the market!
My favorite dish – cuttlefish risotto! And not just because I got to watch Jonathan cut all the ink sacs…
Jonathan making a creamy dressing for the sardines
Setting the table…notice those cucumber skins I was about to throw away…they found a home in the water pitcher
Packages! Filled with fish, veggies, herbs and olive oil
Dessert! I wish I could remember what was in this – Tatjana whipped it up in seconds flat and it was a delicious and sweet way to end of day of cooking with a very talented and charming woman!
Jonathan and I learned so much in such a short amount of time. We have a better understanding of Croatian cuisine and of the wonderful people we met along the way. I no longer waste so much food and have jars upon jars of herb-infused salts for cooking, my freezer is full of homemade veggie and chicken stock, and my enthusiasm in the kitchen grows with every meal I prepare with Jonathan. We are forever grateful for this one-of-a-kind experience.
Much love to Tatjana and her family for welcoming us into their home.
xoxo, Miranda
Traveling on an Empty Stomachs 
What a wonderful experience! Can I ask, what was the cost of the food tour you did with Tatjana?
Hi John, I had Secret Dalmatia plan this as well as a few other experiences over the course of a week. I paid one fee so I have no idea how much the day with Tatjana cost. However, I do have to say it was priceless! If you can spend the day with her I would take advantage of it. Several years later and I think of her teaching, tips and influence on my view of food often.